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I recently came into a deal on an Apple II at an estate sale that I saved from being thrown in their large rental dumpster in the front yard. I didn't know anything about it and thought it would be fun to play around with until I got home and realized it to be a relatively low serial number and probably much more valuable to someone who is passionate about vintage computing.
I have not yet turned it on, or even cleaned the case as of yet and do not wish to do any damage to the machine, but I was hoping you guys wouldn't mind assisting me in making the for sale listing as accurate as possible. What are some things I should know about this item that my google-fu hasn't yet provided? It appears the power supply has been replaced and I am unsure of the specs / numbers on the ROM card. What steps should I take to test this machine safely?
I have noted your long going this is laughable thread and intend to set this up as an auction. Would it behoove me to list the game controllers separately?
I'd bundle the paddle controllers with it.
i dont see anything special about it, $10-$50 max.
You have quite a prize there!! I would include it all together in one auction - and if you can show that it works (hook it up to a monitor, show that all the keys work by typing something out, etc.) and offer to double box it so that original box doesn't get any more beat up.
Best of luck!!
Jennifer
That's a nice estate sale find!
The 7906 serial number on the motherboard indicates either a Rev.3 or Rev.4 board which seems consistent with the 17XXX overall serial number of the system (suggesting the system was assembled in early 1979). Therefore the late 1978 date codes on the Integer BASIC ROMs on the motherboard are also consistent and are likely the original ones. The ROMs on the ROM card are AppleSoft BASIC, likely purchased by the original owner to upgrade the computer.
You are right that the power supply is not original.
The keyboard is likely original since it still has the raised lit-topped power key (which of course is not a real key and why on later keyboards was removed to avoid confusion).
The presence of Supermod is neither here nor there regarding value - in fact I would argue it would be nicer without it since there will be glue reside left on the wall of the computer's case if a new owner wanted to restore the system to "stock".
Bottom line is if you want to maximize sale price, you need to check its operational status.
In fully working condition I wouldn't be surprised if you got $1000+ for it.
In partially working condition (say, garbage displayed on screen or many of the keys stick/don't work) you could still get $500+.
Point is that if you don't investigate, you are asking the bidders to gamble and that would certainly lower the final price.
Hook it up to a monitor or TV and find out.
Good luck!
Howie
garagesaleapple17385,
Looks like a nice unit.
The motherboard has the 16K Blocks.
Before you do anything else,
follow everyone's suggestions and test it.
Nice find.
Steven![Smile](https://www.applefritter.com/sites/all/modules/smiley/packs/kolobok/smile.gif)
Thank you guys for your contributions. I will turn her on after a thorough once over. Will any television serve as a proper monitor?
I have no idea what you're talking about sir. I was assured by my salesman when I bought my Apple II, that if I needed it, pressing that touch-sensitive key would give me MORE POWER and that it's illumination indicated that the computational engine throttle was indeed engaged and running at full electron efficiency.
So that's a good question. I know that the SupRMod's purpose in life back then was to allow you to plug a TV into it instead of buying a monitor, I honestly don't know if modern sets would work or not. Suddenly I am having visions of playing Wizardry on a 42" LED TV :bigsmile:
Jennifer
You need to have an analog tuner to use the Sup-R-Mod. Everything since 2009 or so will have the new digital tuners.
Actually, many TV's do still have analog tuners. I use my recently purchase Samsung LED TV with my Atari 2600 on Channel 3. Never tried my Apple II with it since it's on the other side of the room.
If you are talking about a modern TV with a composite port, then you can connect from the "Video Out" on the Apple to the "Composite In" of the TV. This has always worked for me, though some have reported that modern TVs do not necessarily convert Apple's signal very well. So it may partially be a matter of luck.
Back in the 70s TVs did not have composite input (or at least mine did not), and so the Super 'Mod was used to connect directly to an antenna connection, after which you would find the Apple signal on channel 3 or some such.
As an aside, I bought an LCD security monitor used off ebay. A lot of these have a composite port (check the pics to make sure). It makes an excellent display for my apple. Mine came with a BNC composite connector, so I had to spend a couple dollars more for plug that went from BNC to RCA.
I don't know about those MORE POWER capabilities, but for sure you can press the raised keycap power light and you'll get MORE CASH when the computer sells at auction - way more than if the square flat power light on later keyboards is pressed!
Looks like the ROM card is populated with Applesoft ROMs,
but appears to be missing the F8 autostart ROM.
The power supply looked to have been replaced at some point.
Re: the testing it question and the Supermod: for a simple smoke test ignore the Supermod and connect the onboard video port via a simple RCA cable to the composite input jack on any modern TV. The oft-reported problem with Apple II's and modern TVs is that color doesn't work; the way the Apple II generates color isn't really according-to-Hoyle up to NTSC standards and "digital" TVs sometimes won't interpret what it does "correctly". But if all you're doing is seeing if the computer will give you a BASIC prompt you don't care.
Beautiful motherboard ! Is it a Rev 3 (socketed RAM blocks) or 4 (soldered RAM blocks) ? You can also check by removing the CPU and read the silkscreen (respectively 820-0001-03 or 820-00001-04).
BTW, the F8 ROM jumper is not closed on the ROM card so the Apple will boot from the motherboard F8 ROM. It's probably the old monitor (garbage on screen and asterisk prompt).
Thank you for clarifying!!!
When I boot it, I do get the garbage and asterisk prompt. It is a Rev 3 board, with socketed RAM blocks. I cleaned the motherboard carefully and reseated several loose chips, and booted it and ran full diagnostics. It passes all tests with flying colors - the motherboard looks like it came out of the factory yesterday.
The ROM card was then inserted (after powering off) and then rebooted and all is good there too. So at least all of the ROMs are vintage and correct, as is all other components except the power supply. Anybody know which power supply would be correct for this vintage? (7906 motherboard date).
Thanks again!!
Jennifer
If you 42" still support Analog TV Signals, and is tolerant enough of the Apple ]['s NTSC signals it will be fine. Also if your TV Supports Composite Video, and is tolerant enough of the Apple ]['s NTSC signals it will be fine too.
The Composite Route would be better than the TV RF Route, because the signal will be cleaner..
I actually have a Composite to VGA box, like this one, and it looks fairly nice:
The Teknika MA-RGB7 Card and the SainSmart GBS-8220 RGB/CGA/EGA/YUV to VGA Arcade HD Video Converter Board
MarkO
A lot of the Rev-4 Motherboards I have seen have a REV-4 right near Slot 4, visible without removing any Chips..
MarkO
Hello MarkO,
Yep, but not on this one. This is why I've asked.
Fascinating......
MarkO
This thread is very confusing. I thought the motherboard in question was confirmed to be a rev.3 (removable memory blocks). Therefore why would it be fascinating that it doesn't say "REV 4" between the slots??? Or am I missing something?
But as a separate issue, are you SURE there are rev.4 boards that DON'T have "REV 4" printed between the slots? Wouldn't that imply that there are in fact at least two versions (revisions!) of rev.4 board out there?
Oops I think I made the thread even more confusing now.
Howie
Hello Howie,
Sorry for the confusion.
In fact, I thought this was a Rev 4 without the mention printed. I was pretty sure to have seen at least one. But after some research, it's not the case. Like MarkO pointed out, all the Rev. 4 motherboards have the REV 04 printed under the 4th slot.
However, NOT all Rev 4 motherboards are Soldered Memory blocks though!
As evidenced by this thread.
Zan