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I've been making progress -- just not posting it, so here is a series of updates.
The earlier post of the aligner was the aluminum version. Here is the PCB version, with Gateron switches installed.
IMG_20240511_214154010.jpg
When you have dozens of diodes to bend and stuff, what do you do?
Well, you print a bending form.
IMG_20240512_164918814.jpg
The divots are appropriately sized for the diods and the width is correct for the PCB holes. Allows me to bend 10 at a time.
IMG_20240512_164932865_HDR.jpg
The form is two parts that are identical. Once the diodes are in place, the top part is put in place to sandwich the diodes in place.
IMG_20240512_164954537_HDR.jpg
The result is a strip of diodes with nicely bent leads, ready to be clipped and stuffed.
IMG_20240512_165212751.jpg
After a bunch of bending, stuffing, and soldering, the board is ready to mate with keys.
IMG_20240523_230504236.jpg
IMG_20240523_230451987.jpg
Can you spot the mistake?
Time to tackle the controller board. Not my best soldering job ever, but its sufficient. For those wondering, it took two tries. First one I tried with my hot air gun. I have an tip appropriate for the package. Would probably have done well if I had ordered a stencil for the board. Too hard to get even solder paste spread across the pads from a syringe. Ended up pulling it off, cleaning it up and doing it a second time with a regular iron and the "drag method". Came out decent. Ended up with only one pin that I had to go back and touch up because it wasn't connected.
IMG_20240522_092100220.jpg
With that, I added the crystal and its caps, the bypass caps, and programming headers so I could program the chip. That turned into an escapade in its own right. Note that the fuse values in the CMakefile comments DO NOT agree with the actual values set by the CMakefile. Ended up using a Bus Pirate to program the chip.
With the chip programmed and verification that it was at least scanning the key matrix, I put everything else needed, for an Apple II keyboard, on the board.
IMG_20240601_164929676.jpg
With the controller complete, it's time for testing.
IMG_20240601_180031285.jpg
I actually found the badly soldered pin during testing. Data bit #1 was stuck low. Tracing it back was when I found the not connected pin. With that fixed, all data lines toggled and all keys responded as expected.
IMG_20240601_180037510.jpg
Now, for the real test!
IMG_20240601_180352624_HDR.jpg
It's alive and appears to be fully functional.
Oh yeah, did you find the mistake I made earlier? It's a painful one. I forgot to install the space bar stabilizer before I mated the keys+aligner to the PCB. Unfortunately, there will be a bunch of de-soldering in my future to get them installed.
In post #54, 'wpmcamara' wrote:
"Too hard to get even solder paste spread across the pads from a syringe. "
Uncle Bernie comments:
the ladies who do the SMD soldering by hand in the company I worked for before retirement used a small brush (and a loupe) to apply solder paste to the solder side of the pins, while holding the SMD with a "suction cup" type tool. Then they positioned the SMD on the PCB, hand soldered and adjusted two diagonal pins, and the rest was done by a combination of pre-heat and hot air. This technique even works with BGAs. The trick is to get the right amount of solder paste on each pin. I tried to replicate their technique myself but failed. It's not easy. But these ladies had the skill.
- Uncle Bernie
That sounds like a neat trick, thanks for sharing! I've got some test boards I'm gonna try this on!
The brush method certainly sounds very difficult.
What works for many is to automate the paste application as much as possible. The goal is to apply the same size dot to all 88 pads (e.g.) of a QFP: so use a device+technique that can repeat the same size dot 88 times. Now the only manual aspect is positioning the syringe and activating the pump.
Got back from vacation and decided to tackle my mistake and get the spacebar stabilizer installed.
Made me an 8u stabilizer bar. Since someone will ask, I have a DU-BRO E/Z Bender Wire Forming Tool. Makes forming the bar much easier.
IMG_20240620_143821890.jpg
Installed.
IMG_20240620_144323801_HDR.jpg
All put back together. Added a warm white power LED as well.
IMG_20240620_151554319.jpg
Met up with @dnfr2 this weekend to get a set of key caps and got them installed.
IMG_20240622_221028617.jpg
Mounting it was another story. My Apple II+ has a rev 2 keyboard and mounting the replacement requires removing the controller board to be able to get to the screws. And the screws are at an angle. And, when directly mounted, the top lit bumps into the top of the keyboard and can't slide into place. Still, I got it temporarily mounted and am quite happy.
IMG_20240623_211151213.jpg
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IMG_20240623_211202504_HDR.jpg
IMG_20240623_211957133.jpg
IMG_20240623_212840695.jpg
I've got some longer 6-32 screws arriving tomorrow and I'll 3d print a space to allow enough room for the lid to slide into place. Otherwise, its getting close to being called "complete".
I printed a set of spacers and palte to better mount the keyboard.
Both sides have a backing plate to better spread the force of the screws, and accounts for the angle of the screws.
IMG_20240626_172655902.jpg
Each side also has a spacer. On one side, it's just a solid block.
IMG_20240626_172716560.jpg
On the other side, its a bit more complex because the aligner plate comes all the way over and has cutouts for the screws.
IMG_20240626_172730723.jpg
With the backing plates and the spacers, I can properly tighten the screws down, without bending or damaging the PCB. The case lid now clears the aligner board.
IMG_20240626_172811302.jpg
With that, I'm considering this build done, at least as far as my Apple II is concerned.
Wahoo very impressive,
i need a set of keycaps for apple II+ do you know where I can find them ? vincebt
If you are looking for originals, then good luck. Single keycaps show up on Ebay, as well as complete keyboards, but they aren't cheap. The ones dnfr has will only fit Cherry MX style switches.
I can't believe I didn't see this before. I just got done watching Chris' build video. Awesome work, just awesome.
Can someone bring me up to date as to where this project is right now and if there is a way I can get/build one of these?
Thanks! :-)
Wow, I somehow missed all the new stuff in this thread from the summer onward. Nice work!! It was great meeting you in person this summer, and I really enjoy seeing the snapshots of the project as it progressed.
The project is on github.
Also, another builder also had some issues with the angled of the keyboard relative to the mounting screws, and created a set of spacers, which can be found on Thingiverse.
I have keycaps, as well as some PCBs. I did the original designes as a first Kicad project (as a longtime Altium user). Kicad has improved and changed quite a bit from version 5, which I originally used. My Kicad practices and workflow have also changed and improved, so I'm taking some time to bring the design files up to my current Kicad practices, which affects libraries and workflows more than the layouts.
I also have a list of improvements lined up for the firmware, including better hardware abstraction to improve portability, easier keymap definitions, better keycode-function mapping, EEPROM support for settings and macros, among other things.
Dave
Subject says it all. I'm going to reduce your inventory... ;-) This is a great project.
Hello guys,
this is some really impressive work!
I've been desperately (and long) waiting for Apple ][+ replacement keyboards to show up on Reactivemicro, before I stumbled upon this thread. I'm good at soldering, but my technical skills are not at a level that'd allow me to produce or instruct a third party on how to build the PCBs for me.
Is it possible to sign up for a replacement keyboard kit here (keyboard + encoder)? I'm interested in buying 1-2 of these. Is there something like a wait list?
I have original sets of keycaps. I am reading that these fit the Futaba MD switches in the comments below this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LShPrPoK4dI&list=WL&index=62&t=2123s
I have a couple of superencoders from Reactivemicro, as well as full sets of original keycaps. I'm ready to buy the other components or trade mine for the components I'm missing. Can you please help me find the missing components so I can bring back to life my two Apple ][ Europluses? I'm based in Germany.
In post #67, 'shortydos633' wrote:
" I've been desperately (and long) waiting for Apple ][+ replacement keyboards to show up on Reactivemicro, before I stumbled upon this thread. "
Uncle Bernie comments:
Don't be desperate, just try to contact 'dfnr2' by using the "send PM" button and ask him if he has some PCBs left over.
Also note that a few days ago I have revived my own keyboard project, but it has slightly different mission objectives, as it primarily is meant for the Apple-1 builder scene. Recent trouble with original Apple II keyboards I have used so far (and converted for Apple-1) nudged me into taking my project from the back burner and finishing it, and as I have some original Apple II keyboard encoder cards around, I added the 25 pin connector to make it able to accept such an encoder. The open question still is if the result fits mechanically in the Apple II shell.
Here is my thread:
https://www.applefritter.com/content/does-anyone-know-source-25-pin-apple-ii-keyboard-connector
The title shows why I just had to do it. I have two original Apple II keyboards which I have restored in many hours of work, but one of them has a flaky Molex connector and as the thread found out, these are out of stock everywhere. So I had to make a new layout supporting the Hirose connector which still is in stock at several distributors.
If 'dfnr2' is sold out, I have ordered a few PCBs more of my own design than I need, and my part with the excess at my own costs.
BUT . . . here is advice for readers who have followed this thread here (not the mine):
Some commenters have expressed concerns about ordering keyboard PCBs by themselves, from the github files. IMHO these concerns are justified.
Once you have mechanical specs to be observed for the mounting of the key switches, it may get tricky to get what you want (the jury is still out on my own attempt to make a keyboard PCB). Too many things can go wrong even when the Gerbers are the same and once yielded working PCBs. This is because every PCB manufacturer has their own internal processes, CAD/CAM tools and interfaces and they need to convert your Gerbers back to their in-house tools. Occasionally, something can go wrong in that process. Frankly, Gerbers are NOT the best way to specify PCBs, because of these possible ambiguities and pitfalls. But Gerbers happen to be the old-time industry standard and every PCB manufacturer supports them. Despite of the risks.
Yet another issue is NRE costs which can't be spread out over many PCBs, so small quantities of PCBs typically needed by an individual may have prohibitive costs per unit.
So my advice is, don't attempt to order these 'dfnr' PCBs by yourself, but ask 'dfnr' if he has some left for you. This will take the PCB manufacturing pitfalls away from you and he will be happy to sell off his excess parts inventory.
- Uncle Bernie
Thanks for your extensive reply. I will definitely follow your advice about the PCBs! It seems that getting new keyboards will be an ongoing topic, so I will surely check out this and your thread regurarly. Any other suggestions on from where to get replacement parts / kits / complete keyboards would be much appreciated! Thanks again!
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