DS1216E no slot clock battery replacement

It should be doable. But I can help only after two weeks when I will have access to such device...

A DataSheet for the Dallas DS1216 indicates that there is Battery Voltage present and that Washing it ( a common practice when building Circuit Boards ) can cause a Short Circuit, ( see page 11 of 13 of the Linked Document)...

http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/58439/DALLAS/DS1216.html

MarkO

Happy New Year!

This Dallas Semiconductor smartwatch, also known as a no slot clock, took five MONTHS to arrive in Australia from China.

Apart from that, overall happy with this little chip - except that the battery is exhausted. I swear I've read somewhere that traces/legs can be cut on the board so that a new power source can be attached, does anyone know anything more about this?

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Hello you probably had a posting about this page in mind:
http://a2central.com/6193/ultimateapple2-and-reactivemicro-refine-the-no-slot-clock/

and the member georgel mentioned this unit several times...
a view at trace at his member page viewing list of participated threads might be usefull....

speedyG

Yeah was looking at the new model that was released last year, but after shipping to Australia I was looking at a pretty expensive chip. The Dallas was still only $15 shipped from China (but yes, it did take five whole months).

I might have to just bite the bullet and buy the new model though if I can't figure this puzzle out.

Hello CWJ_Wilko,

well the reactive micro replacemant is based to the application AN5756 of Maxim and
replaces the DS1216 with a DS1215 instead and supplies that chip with external battery.
so thats not exactly the solution you are hunting....

it seems that you are just looking for precise data to figure out different
kinds of voltage connections.... in that case you might just click this link:
http://www.appleii-box.de/Manuals/DS1216DS1216H.pdf
and view specially page 2 !

At the bottom of page 6 there is a link to far more additional stuff at maxim
related to comparable chips and replacements like phantom clocks including the mentioned AN5756 sheet.

In fact if you want to solve the problem with the empty litium cell you will have to add
between Vcc of the socket and Vcc of the chip some small "lockup" to enable a additional
lithium supply working "internal" between Vcc Socket and Vcc chip at 5 Volt to disable
"internal chip switch" from switching to empty internal battery and stay instead with
external battery and it shall prevent the chip from accessing the internal battery and
prevent the external battery from getting drained by the internal battery.....

Maybe it might turn out to solve the problem by adding only "internal" between socket and chip a
additional lithium cell at VccB or VccD and disconnecting line to external socket ? see citation of posting below !

Please recognize that there are different layouts for 28 pin sockets and 32 pin sockets !
Tracing that lines should solve your research.

In 1999 there was a posting published between Steve Buggie and Dave Wilson
which i add here as citation:

"(stephen e buggie) writes:
>About six weeks ago, there was a thread on this topic - rejuvenating
>the NS Clock. There _are_ two points on the green daughterboard on the
>"chip" at which an external batter could be attached. Check with DAVID
>EPSON (New Zealand). It looks like the external battery is feasible, but
>a trace should be cut somewhere so that the exterenal battery is not
>drained by the dead internal unit..... [David --- please supply
>details!] Steve Buggie

I think you may be getting David Empson (of New Zealand) mixed up with me
[David Wilson (of Australia)].
I certainly posted information about the battery in a NSC.
If you remove the ROM chip from the NSC you will be able to see a chip,
PC board and a large letter (A/B/C/D/E/F depending on model of SmartWatch).
Placing the clock chip so that the letter is the right way up (and to the
right hand end of the chip, look for two small terminals to the right of
the letter (above and below). They should be marked - (the top one) and +
(the bottom one). You will see a trace leading from the -ve terminal to
the top righthand corner of the chip inside the SmartWatch. This goes to
both pins at the rh end of the chip then goes past the + terminal to the
external pin on the SmartWatch package (pin 12 or 14 depending on the model).
It looks like the +ve terminal is connected on the other side of the PC board.
If you were to cut the connection between the -ve terminal and the chip,
this would disconnect it. Then you could connect an external battery +ve
wire to the +ve internal battery terminal and the external battery -ve
wire to the chip side of the cut you made in the -ve PC board trace then
the external battery would be used and the internal disconnected.
To see the board layout in more detail, download the file app04.pdf from
the Dallas web site. It is a 4 page document with descriptions of the
Smartwatch options that can be changed by cutting traces and joining jumpers
on the PC board. I think there is an error in this document as it has
the DS1216D diagram twice and no picture of the DS1216E.

David Wilson School of IT & CS, Uni of Wollongong, Australia"

and a similar thread at another forum contained this info´s:

"I'm working on a piece of test equipment that has a data logging feature, and contains a Real Time Clock
to provide time stamps in the event history.
It was found necessary to reset the time and date every time I powered it up,
so suspected a failed back-up battery.
The RTC function is provided by a Dallas DS1216 "Smartwatch" module coupled to an 84256 RAM.
This contains an embedded lithium battery and the clock and control electronics.
Googling around suggested these were still available, but not particularly cheap and of a
similar date code, over 20 years old.
Inspired by some of Kat Manton's exploits I thought I'd explore further and attempt a repair
or find a workable solution.
I prodded around and found a few hundred mV's floating around some of the pins, but wasn't sure
whether this was coming from elsewhere on the board.
I went to great pains removing the 28 pin device, only to find the underside potted with epoxy.
My biggest breakthrough was chancing upon the DS1215 which I took a gamble upon being the smaller
IC set inside the 28 pin socket. The datasheet indicated a 3 V lithium battery externally connected
to pin 4 and gnd.
I measured 0.3 V here, and nothing at the output (pin15) which confirmed a depleted battery.
In preparedness, I had already been to Maplins and bought a CR2032 battery and holder. Fearing
nothing to lose, I connected it to the battery connections on the IC, soldering to the shoulders
of the pins.
Probed about again, now the voltages seemed to be correct.
I re-soldered the module to the pcb, refitted the RAM and went for it.
Brilliant, all working as it should, and remembering the correct time.
Connecting a new battery directly in parallel with the depleted embedded one did play on my mind,
however I don't really have much choice unless I can find a way of disconnecting the original battery.
The DS1215 has an input for a second battery (pin 14) which if not used should be tied to gnd.
I discovered it was actually connected to the other battery (pin 4). I did consider applying a
low voltage between the two pins to fuse the trace, but thought best to give up while I was winning.
I originally had the new battery connected between pin 4 and pin 8, but re-worked it to connect

to pin 14 and pin 8 as it seemed a tidier job.
Interestingly enough with the new battery temporarily disconnected, the original battery was reading
just over 3 volts steady, so was obviously still capable of holding a charge. This made me feel a
bit happier. Also proved that the job could be done in-situ.
The only real problem is mounting the new battery, currently it is taped up and secured with a self
adhesive cable tie base."

so using pin 4 might be the solution that solves the problem, if it´s disconnected from Ground
and connected to the external battery instead.

At the other hand due to the fact that the App04.pdf seems not to be availiable any more
and therefor there seems not to be any pinout of the DS1216 availiable, it might turn out to
be usefull comparing it with the DS1306 pinout, if it uses the same pins....:

https://www.maximintegrated.com/en/app-notes/index.mvp/id/52

maybe this helps you ahead.....

Hope your happy now.....
sincerely
SpeedyG

The Apple II Enthusiasts section on Facebook is currently having a discussion on how to fix this problem. A fix has been found on another website:

http://www.vintage-radio.net/forum/showthread.php?t=120088

The problem with this type of solution as mentioned on Facebook is that you're hooking up a new battery in parallel with the old one and that might cause some problems.

A workaround for that problem has been suggested but it has not been tested yet.

Hi,

I'm new here and not an Apple user (have an LC III...but little use...:(...)...but I got this 'No-Slot Clock' module and would like to use it in one old XT clone that I'm playing with....found info that the original disk with programs/drivers for this clock-module was in a 'dual' format...i.e. one side of the floppy contained the Apple programs and one the PC programs...

Anyone here with the disk still at hand? I'm desperately looking for the 2 programs for the PC (DOS) side....

Thanks in advance!

Exactly where is the battery located? In the socket or in the 16-pin chip itself? I would
say its in the base of the "module" and separate from the 1216. And I don't like that.

All that needs to be done is dis-assemble the module, remove the 1216 and build a new mount with a proper replaceable battery. This one is constructed like that..
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171331427872?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Or just build your own socket/module with a DS1215 - it's simple - you just add a battery
and crystal and connect a few wires.

Kinda like this one!
https://www.ultimateapple2.com/catalogzen154/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_16&products_id=70

The data sheets show you the hookup diagram too.

I also dislike any solution that leaves the original battery sitting millimeters away from your motherboard. These are classic computers we're working with and I'd rather not subject them to risk by way of battery leakage.

Would this help?
ftp://ftp.oldskool.org/pub/drivers/Dallas/ds1216e.zip

Hi,

I'm new here and not an Apple user (have an LC III...but little use...:(...)...but I got this 'No-Slot Clock' module and would like to use it in one old XT clone that I'm playing with....found info that the original disk with programs/drivers for this clock-module was in a 'dual' format...i.e. one side of the floppy contained the Apple programs and one the PC programs...

Anyone here with the disk still at hand? I'm desperately looking for the 2 programs for the PC (DOS) side....

Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the link!

Will test it and see if it works!

I think this is what you need, sorry didn't catch the request sooner:
http://www.apple2faq.com/knowledgebase/installing-parallel-cr2032-battery-vintage-dallas-based-nsc/

From the article:

"In conversations on this topic with other Apple II Enthusiasts on Facebook, participants indicated that running current from the new CR2032 though the old embedded internal battery may be problematic and may eventually lead to membrane degradation of the old battery and a short. According to the DS1215 datasheet, pin 4 and pin 14 are the battery pins. If pin 14 isn’t being used it should be tied to GND. The recommendation here would therefore be to cut both pins 4 and 14 and tying pin 14 to GND and connecting pin 4 to the CR2032. When cutting pin 4, one should be careful to leave enough pin shoulder to still be able to solder a wire to it to connect it to the battery."

Pin 14 may or may not already be tied to ground. Test it and see, if it isn't then make it so. It is important to make sure the old battery is completely out of circuit. No one has 100% said for sure if it discharges the new battery or if partial voltage affects the chip in foreseen ways. Therefore this "potential improvement" is required.

Ideally one would cut out the old battery or simply go with the Reactive Micro solution. OR make your own.

Hello to the technical folks,

is there a technical solution available on how to rework an existing DS1216D no slot clock to a DS1216E version?
Is it just to exchange the installed chip?

I'm asking because I do have a DS1216D version available which doesn't work in an Apple //e.

Any suggestion is higly welcome.

Update 05/30/2016: I will reply to myself

My above statement is wrong... I do have a DS1216E no slot clock while the PCB is Rev.D... that confuses me. Anyhow... I installed the no slot clock and tried to use the No Slot Clock dsk image available at Asimov... but it doesn't work... the Computer starts booting up the NoSlotClock image disk showing ProDos 2.0.3 but then it hangs...

Any idea why... I installed the NoSlotClock at Video Rom location first now it's installed at the EF Rom location. Same result.

Update 05/31/2016: Problem fixed

I just fixed my DS1216E problem using the files from following link

Ultimateapple 2 - DS1216E Driver

Have fun