Hi,
as I wanted to replace the RIFAs in a recently acquired Monitor IIc I acidentially killed the CRT.
Now I have gutted the case and want to transform it to a color LCD. The Panel of a dead iPad I had lying around fits in nearly perfect, a controller board is on its way to me.
Now I want to assemble the screen in the IIc Monitor case. But since the CRT is curved at the front there is a gap between the LCD screen and the case.
Has anyone already made (or know of) a "filler" for this gap (for 3D-printing) or at least some tech drawings from the case with measurements (esp. the radiuses of the CRT)?
Best wishes
Ouch. The best-laid plans of mice and men...
What is needed is a "fairing compound" that can be laid into the curved surface, dried, and then sanded flat. The "spackling compounds" used for patching walls may also work. These are known by names like "Drydex", "Instafil", "Fast n Final", etc. Once sanded, they can be painted to match the color of the case. These compounds are made to be easily sandable: they contain glass microspheres.
My only hesitation is that the spackling compounds may not adhere very well to ABS plastic of the monitor case. Some of them are vinyl-based, which should stick pretty well, but the plaster-type compounds might not. Proper fairing compounds are epoxy-based and will adhere great, but they are messy to mix and harder to find.
Perhaps a model meant for installing an LCD in a compact Mac could be modified to work?
https://www.printables.com/model/509904-original-apple-macintosh-lcd-screen-mount
These products have no structural strength whatsoever and won't stick to the plastic.
You might have better luck with JB-Weld, JB-Plastic Weld, or some mouldable epoxy repair sticks (stuff comes in a tube, you break off a piece and knead it like plasticene to activate it and it hardens rock hard, and sandable) from the local hardware store.
No, I do not want to glue (or to "plastic-weld) anything, since I want to do a fully revertable work.
I have the one or other idea how to construct a fitting bezel.
Another problem that appeared: the controller board only has HDMI-input, I accidentially didn't take care when ordering. Hopefully I find another board with CVBS in. Otherwise I'd had to use a RGB2HDMI board and connect the monitor to the 15pin-out on the //c.