I have a IIc Plus that works great except that the floppy won't eject, so I'm looking for a dead one to farm for parts or just the internal drive. Please contact me if you want to unload either. Thanks.
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The eject switch is very simple - it just makes an electrical contact. You should be able to pull it apart and either see what's missing/broken, or fashion something else to work in its stead. You do have to keep the button pressed for a second or two, rather than just a quick jab.
It may not be the switch, but the motor that does the ejecting of the disk. Now the IIc+ used a different kind of 3.5 drive. If I remember it was a 4 to 1 interweave. That would have to uni 3.5.
But I seem to remember that the basic drive was the same so all that had to change was to take the controller board off the bad drive and put it on an regular Apple IIgs 800k drive. Just trying to remember who did this?
So I believe it is possible to take the Standard IIgs with a 2 to 1 interweave and switch out the main drive part, and install it in the IIc+ with the controller board from the IIc+. Changing it into a uni drive with a 4 to 1 interface.
Yes I have some 800k drives. Some for parts and most I hope, are still working. If you just need a switch no problem.
Maybe someone else can add something to this.
Twilight_Rodent: Thank you very much. Unfortunately, I'm not up to your level on this. Could you tell me just exactly what steps I should take? I'm sorry that I have to ask. I just don't have the expertise in this area (I do development and don't know the hardware that well). Again, thank you.
First does it make any noise when you try to eject?
Does it make any attempt or movement to eject?
Second
Is their a manual eject access hole? (I do not have mine out so I do not know)
It would be a small hole for you put a straighten paper clip in to push a release lever.
It may be in the button like on IIgs 800k drives.
Third This where you are going to have to take it apart.
Opening the case putting the screws in a safe place.
Take the drive out.
Testing the switch with an Volt-Ohm meter. (cheap around $10.)
Set it to ohms and test.
If bad (No Change it state on Ohm Meter.
Replace switch.
One switch may be with wires and a clip, the other on front of the circuit board that say the disk is there maybe soldered in.
I have heard some drives are gummed up from age and the grease drying out. Cleaning out all grease and adding a little new with maybe a small, small drop of oil and ejecting the drive manually a few times to work everything in. Wiping away any excess.
Fourth Replace the drive.
Replace the drive, with using the controller from the old one, to make it a uni 4 to 1 interweve. It is I believe the back board on the drive that changes it in what they call a smart controller. As the main mechanical part is the same.
I am sure some one else may be to add to this, Do not have one in front of me and taken apart.
Take Care
From this picture since I have not dug mine out that their might be a hole for the manual eject hole on the opposite side from the button.
http://www.old-computers.com/museum/photos/Apple_IIcPlus_With2c_s1.jpg
Then again it could be a dark spot, but the location would be in the right spot for a straighten out paper clip. Not the small ones or the ones covered with plastic.
The disk eject button is on the Left Side of the slot. The Manual Disk Eject hole is on the Right Side of the slot. As stated; a straightened large paper clip would be best to remove a stuck disk. If the disk is reading, but just won't eject automatically, you could do the ejection manually and sill use your computer until you get a replacement drive and it should not hurt anything.