What Eprom Burner for the PC do you guys recomend?

I've got one of the Willem programmers, and it's been pretty simple to use. Never used a programmer before, so if a complete newb can figure it out...

They're plentiful on ebay, and the first one I just checked was listed as compatible with the 27(c)16 and 27(c)32. Just go over the specs, since there are a lot of variations of the board for sale with different sockets installed by default (I had to build an adapter for mine for pic programming)

I've used mine for programming pics, as well as a few 27256 Atari TOS eproms.

Just loaded up my burning software, and it does list the 2716 and 2732.

As to the rest...no proballo. Mine's hooked up to a USB 2.0 port on my PC, and I've successfully stacked a dual-boot TOS rom. Test writes, erasing eeproms, read/write and save read roms to disk...yep.

I also bought a cheap UV eprom eraser, which is handy when salvaging used eproms, and the occasional trial and error mistakes.

Enhanced Universal Willem EPROM Programmer

Link to the version I have.

Link to buy-it-now listings for variations of the programmer, ranked by lowest price first.

There's no specific model number for any of these.
Check the compatibility lists in the auction text. Note that adapter boards are required for different chips depending on the built-in sockets. I searched until I found a layout that had a good balance of built-in compatibility for what I expected to be programming vs. cost.

There is a new version of the Willem that communicates via USB. Older versions just use USB or wall wart for power, but still require a parallel port for communications. Don't confuse the two. I don't know why you are looking at burning EPROMS, but I found that if you need to burn an entire bank of 6 for an Apple II, the cost adds up fast. For this reason, when I designed my own Firmware card for the Apple II, I used 27c256 or 27C128 parts. These parts can be found for less than $2.00 each and one is all you need.

http://www.willegal.net/appleii/appleii-fwboard.htm

Regards,
Mike WIllegal

Older versions just use USB or wall wart for power, but still require a parallel port for communications. Don't confuse the two.

OOOOPS! sorry , wrong item , here is the one I ment......

Nice, but also expensive. Is USB connectivity a convenience or necessity for you? It does raise the price.
If that's the one you want, then go for it, and I doubt you'll be disappointed. I'm cheap, and since I figured I'd probably not use mine more than a dozen times, bought the cheapest one that met my needs.

A USB to serial adaptor can be found for less than $25.00. You may find occasional uses for one, especially if you are interested in old computers.

A USB to serial adaptor can be found for less than $25.00. You may find occasional uses for one, especially if you are interested in old computers.

Could be a number of things...and not something I've encountered before.

Silly question, but have you got all the jumpers set correctly? I'll admit my first time out I misinterpreted the software diagram and set my jumpers to the exact opposite of how they should have been.

Found a couple other tidbits:

Similarly, you need to know what the appropriate programming pulse width is. 2716 and 2732 EPROMs are specified to be programmed at VCC=5V, providing you program with a 50mS pulse. The program can do this for 2716, but not 2732 (longest pulse is 25mS). But 50mS isn't the default pulse width for 2716; so you can't assume that the program is correct. This is one of my complaints with the software; no one who's talking knows what it's doing and no one has source for the recent versions...

When you get a new voltmeter, enter the Test H/W tab and set switches/jumpers as indicated in that screen. If more than one of the LEDs are lit, do the simple hardware test in the Help menu. This will get the program and programmer in synch. Then, with no device in the ZIF socket, click on the VPP pin and measure the voltage on pin1. It should be whatever you set VPP to. Do the same for VCC. If those voltages are correct. you should be able to program if the rest of the logic is working.