AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

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(yellow, broken, etc) Is there a place where I can find the technical manual for this monitor? Something to tell me how to open it, as I remove all screws and still doesn't come out, and don't want to break it.
Thanks in advance

Javster

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

Unless you have experience with hi voltage electronics, TV's, or other CRT's DON'T DO THIS!!! The tube can hold a charge (capacitance) for a long time after being turned off that can BE LETHAL. If you know how to safely discharge a CRT, then fine go ahead (and rub a label to see if there is a depression under it where another screw head might be hidden), but otherwise hire a TV technician to do the repair.

Mutant Pie

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

mutant_pie wrote:

Unless you have experience with hi voltage electronics, TV's, or other CRT's DON'T DO THIS!!! The tube can hold a charge (capacitance) for a long time after being turned off that can BE LETHAL. If you know how to safely discharge a CRT, then fine go ahead (and rub a label to see if there is a depression under it where another screw head might be hidden), but otherwise hire a TV technician to do the repair.

Mutant Pie

Hello,

please take the advice from Mutant_Pie to be very serious ! The lethal voltages can amount up to 2000 Volt !


even profesionals that repair TV-sets use special working areas with special precautions when performing
repair tasks to TV-set or monitors ( i.e. there is a isolating transformer switched in between the power-source wall connector and the Power-source connector of the working space, the workspace is covered with special electrical tissue-material and before touching anything inside of such a device special procedures to discharge the picture tube and capacitors must be performed ........ any other kind of attempt without this safty-precautions might end up in a plastic-bag... )

only if you have really a experienced person that performs that tasks .... then the desired material can be found at:
http://mirrors.apple2.org.za/Apple%20II%20Documentation%20Project/Peripherals/Monitors/

sincerely
speedyG

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

Thanks guys, I know it's dangerous. I have done this before, and yes, you need to make sure it discharges, and also avoid certain areas. I already have disassembled the 9" green monitor before, and just found the hidden screw I was missing and have opened it.
Thanks again and I will be very careful, maybe just take it to a TV repairman to make sure is discharged before continuing.
Regards

Javster

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

Update: Thanks everybody, I cleaned and put together the monitor and works fine. I agree is dangerous to work on them, and not to do it if you are not sure.
After Retr0briting it now looks like new, will post photos later.
Before:
http://www.eljavo.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSC_1222.jpg
After:
http://www.eljavo.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/07/DSC_1282.jpg

Thanks again!
Javster

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

hello javster,
congragulations... the pictures are impresive.... did you use the common published procedure using bleach and a ultraviolett lamp ?
and after all - if you had the monitor open i asume that you also readjusted the colormatrix of the picturetube to get again sharp and crisp display ?
usually the years cause parts of the coils to become permanent magnetic and i therefor examine the shift of colors in the display and degauss the responsible areas with a strong degauss-coil.
sincerely speedyG

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

Thanks Speedy, I treated with the good ol' Retr0bright: Peroxyde 30%, Arrowroot and OxyClean. Left it for two days on the sun, and it came out like new. No color matrix readjustment, honestly didn't want to touch the internals too much, just in case still held a charge. The image is still good, anyway.
I've been applying Retr0bright to all my old hardware, and it's almost magical, it leaves them as good as new. I recommned it to everyone, even for newer plastics. Just be creful, it brns with peroxide higher than 6%. I don't trust Chlorine (bleach) too much, it sometimes makes things yellow instead of white. Hope it helps.
Regards

Javster

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

@Javster, I was wondering if you wouldn't post your exact mix here, or a link to your favorite that someone else made. It might help me and others out (I have a couple of cases I'd like to try to rehabilitate).

Thanks,

Mutant Pie

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

You are right Mutant, I actually use it regularly to rehabilitate my equipment, and I love the results. You can find all about it on "retro0bright.wikispaces.com" and "www.flickr.com/photos/66071596@N00/3822230561/", where I learned about it. My version is easy and cheap:

1/2 pint (200 ml) of hydrogen peroxide, 40%.
2 tablespoons of Arrowroot
1/5 teaspoon of "oxy-clean" laundry booster.

The peroxide you have to get it from beauty supply stores, is cheap ( like $3). You need to be careful when handling it as it burns, use gloves. The mixture will foam, is normal, and keep the retrobright in a shaded place as it reacts with the sun.

The arrowroot is used to make the mix gel like to apply it easier and dries at a slower rate, allowing the mix to work on the plastic. Some people like to use xanthan gum and glycerine, but they are expensive and harder to find.

You need to have a very sunny day to do this as sun light is crucial for it to work. I live in Florida so sun is a given.
First you need to heat the peroxide for 20 seconds on the microwave (don't worry, it's safe), then apply the Arrowroot and stir with a wooden spoon for a minute. Then heat it again for another 20 seconds, it will come out in a gel form.
Leave it 2 minutes for the gel to get thicker, then apply the Oxy clean. mix again for a minute or two.
go outside and apply to the plastics with a brush, make sure is even and not very thick. The sun must be direct, and just leave it for a few hours normally i leave it the whole day. Every hour or two I reapply the mix, sometimes if the "gel" is dry i wash the piece first and apply a new layer, so I don't have a dry coat between the gel and the plastic.

You will see the results depending on the yellowing of the plastic from an hour to three or four. Some very yellowed pieces (like the monitor) take a couple of days to go back to the nice original color. Some parts, like the //c power brick, have taken more than 5 days of applications to recover the color, maybe the plastic is different.

Again, be careful with your skin as this mixture burns, also, remove or cover all logos and colored parts, as they will be affected by the mix. Text from keyboards are not affected, but don't leave them for too long, they get cleaned pretty fast, like an hour or two. For keys may be better to make the mix without arrowroot so its a liquid and submerge them in a plastic transparent container.

Hope this helps, and I will be very happy to help at any time.
regards
Javster

PD: just to clarify, some sites recommend peroxide 6%, i used the 3% from the pharmacy, but found later that it takes triple the time than the more powerful 30% or 40%. Just be careful with the burns, they are not dangerous, but you won't feel them until your skin turns white... Smile

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

Thanks for the good tutorial. I have several things to try with this! Also thanks for making the comments about differentiating between different parts. I have several keyboards where the keys yellowed to different degrees despite having always been side-by-side, especially the space key.

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Re: AppleColor IIc Monitor manual/Technical

Excellent, you will love the retrobright.
Just to clarify: try not to apply it to the assembled equipment, the only one I did like that was the power supply, but normally I take apart the drive, monitor or CPU as is not good for the internals to be on the sun, plus the retrobright can get inside and damage things.
Same thing with the logo, it has a small hole behind it and if you push with some strong piece of metal (I use a flat nail) it will come out, and later you can reattach it.
These comments may sound obvious, but they are useful.
Regards
Javster